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It’s important to remember that the healthier and more well fed the feeder insect is, the more it will benefit the spider that’s eating it. These little spiders have amazing strength which allows them to take down prey far bigger than them. However, I don't recommend feeding anything that's larger than your spiders abdomen. Jumping spiders are opportunistic feeders, and if they were in the wild, they wouldn't say no to an easy meal even if they only ate the day before. Captive bred spiders still have this instinct, so it's very easy to overfeed them. Overfeeding your spider has several negative effects on their health, mainly that it considerably shortens their already very short lives. The other main reason to feed sparingly is that while feeding, their abdomens become visibly larger and distended, and some even look like they're going to pop. Were they to take a fall or a bump to their abdomen they can in fact rupture it, which is fatal to them. The reason we recommend that you don’t put younger spiders straight into large enclosures is because when they’re still young and learning how to spider it can be difficult for them to hunt and catch their prey in large open spaces as the prey is usually faster than the spiders at this point. Young spiders are also still a bit wobbly on their legs and will loose grip of the sides of the enclosures quite often. It’s nothing to worry about though and is all part of their learning curve. Having a smaller space if they do fall means it’s not from a great height, and as they tend to miss more times than not when they pounce on their prey it’s easier for them to corner and catch their dinner in a more confined space. Once they’re confident and more stable on their legs nothing gets in the way of a spider and it’s dinner!😉 They also have 8 eyes and each pair of eyes does a different job including giving the spider nearly a 360 view, meaning even if they aren’t facing you they are still watching you! First and foremost, DO NOT house multiple jumpers together. Jumper’s are.. to put it bluntly cannibalistic. The size of your enclosure will be contingent upon the size of your spider. Jumping spiders do not require a lot of space. A large enclosure for a small spider, can hinder your jumping spider from being able to find its prey. Not being able to find prey, can lead to starvation and even death. These can be found online in their pupa stage and are known as castors. These take up the least room and require little care, they can be stored in the fridge until you need them and are relatively cheap for the amount you get. The biggest issue with these is hatching them successfully and I aren’t afraid to admit that I have issues with this. Some people seem to be naturals at it, whilst others just aren’t. To trigger the fly to hatch you take a few out of the fridge and pop in a small container with holes, then put the container somewhere warm. Within a few days they will hatch. If only it were that simple for all of us! For this reason it’s hard to have a reliable supply of flies as some hatch, and some don’t. I have a video tutorial in the blog section from a friend of mine who shows you how he hatches his flies.

Once you have a suitable enclosure you can start thinking of how to decorate it for your spider. There are many differing opinions on what should and could be used for this, and in the future I will do another care sheet to delve into the hot topic of bio-active VS naturalistic VS fantasy decor. I personally only have bio-active habitats for all my spiders, and this option has so many benefits including the most important one of being great for your spiders health, but for now I will run through the easiest and most purse-friendly option that the majority of people opt for with their first jumping spider, which is naturalistic. This basically means that the enclosure looks as close to what the spider would have in the wild with the exception of the majority of items like plants being artificial. For the floor of the enclosure and to help with humidity a little bit of substrate is still needed in the form of sphagnum moss or purpose made spider, insect and reptile soil mixtures which will retain a little moisture without becoming sodden or waterlogged and leading to moldy bits growing. I have actually been bitten 4 times in total, 3 of which were dry bites (no venom injected) and I don’t actually class them as bites at all because of the circumstances surrounding them. In this particular incident, I was actually bitten by 3 of my spiders within minutes of each other which was the first sign that there was perhaps something else going on other than them biting me for the sake of it.Our hair is not only a crucial part of our physical appearance but also a reflection of our personal style. To help individuals express themselves and achieve their desired hairstyles, Redone Spider Wax has become increasingly popular among hair styling products. In this article, we will delve into the features and advantages of Redone Spider Wax, a unique formulation designed specifically for hair. Jumping spiders are considered beginner friendly as they are low maintenance. And can be as inexpensive or expensive which is entirely up to you, depending on your choice of enclosure and accessories. The largest of the jumping spiders comes from the Hyllus genus and can reach up to 4cm in some cases, with the smallest species of jumping spider being as tiny as just a millimeter. Exactly the same as green bottles but larger and can be fed from 6th instar onward. If feeding these to sub adult/adult spiders you may need to feed a little more frequently than if feeding them locusts.

Hair that falls flat halfway through the day… it kinda kills your vibe. So swing into action and set your style with our spider hair wax. It delivers epic all-day hold alongside big volume and texture. The formula is like no other, developed to give hair the flexibility and durability of a spiderweb. Hair feels supple but stays in place, so you can express yourself with messy spikes, high-volume fauxhawks, defined curls, and more. I had washed my hands as I always do before handling my spiders so I’d like to think there wasn’t anything on my hands that could have caused their reaction. Overfeeding them is often done with no ill intent of their owner, they just assume their spider is hungry every couple of days when in reality these spiders can go weeks without food. They’re very cheap to buy considering how many you get, and really easy to care for as they’ll eat just about anything. They take up little space, but they can smell a bit in my opinion. They’re also quite fatty and not the best nutritionally for your spider. It’s advised to feed these only as a treat or part of a varied diet occasionally. These can be fed from 6th instar onward depending on your spiders size as they’re strong little worms that can also nip your spider given the chance, so always supervise your spider when it’s hunting and eating a mealworm. These also burrow into the substrate and then turn into beetles which can be fatal to your spider if it bites it as they have really powerful mandibles and hard exoskeletons meaning your spider won’t be able to defend themselves. So if your spider doesn’t eat it within half an hour, remove it from their enclosure.There are several options when it comes to what jumping spiders can and will eat, and the majority of the time it’s a delicate balance between what the owner is OK dealing with, and what the spider needs to stay healthy. Just remember that whatever you do decide to feed your spider, it will all be live food and as such will need its own care routine in addition to your spider. Some don’t take up much space or upkeep, and some will need enclosures of their own as well as food and bedding.