A lot of absolute rubbish is written and repeated about worm composting, equally there is also information that many people involved in the industry are not so sure about, after 23 years in the worm game, preceeded by 15 years in the nursery trade, preceeded by 10 years in the “Topsoil” game I am happy to stand by my own views however much they contradict others, so………. I will monitor the moisture of the bin on a daily basis the first couple of days and see if the worms are happy to be collected by the client this weekend. Getting the best wormery for you means ensuring it has the correct size, number of trays and volume. Don’t ever put your loved ones in the presence of hazardous, earth-destroying, laboratory-manufactured products again.

It’s a large container filled with soil, with drainage holes in the bottom and a lid to keep out the rain. A worm blanket to cover the contents and create an environment that encourages the worms to work efficiently. I usually add about half the depth of the tray or more knowing that this layer will quickly drop down in level as the bedding breaks down and compacts. Bigger households will need a larger wormery although the size will also depend on the space you have available. Simply pop the mat on the very top of your wormery (just below the lid) and then lift to add waste underneath.The Varied Diet of Skinks: Insects, Fruits, and More Skinks are opportunistic feeders, and their diets can vary significantly depending on their species and the environment they inhabit. Your composting worms bin should also be kept regularly cleaned, and also be replenished with new bedding at least every two months (fluff the bedding or add in some more so that enough air will flow into the bin but do make sure that the ventilation holes aren’t blocked as well). Other than that, it’s very handy to have at home, since you can easily place it indoors (beside your kitchen counter, under your sink, by your balcony) or outdoors. After that I have been filling up tiers 2 and 3 with food that has been fermented in a bokashi bin first.

The trays feature “stops” to improve air circulation, but we found the gaps meant the worms could not move upwards as well. Compost / worm farm conditioner or Lime Mix which Balances the PH levels of your worm farm and helps the worms to digest larger quantities of food, reducing odours and controlling pest infestations. Add the contents of your vacuum cleaner, no, worms will not eat the hair and very little of the other junk that’s in there, they may consume the dead skin but why bother when there is a better choice elsewher all you end up with is hair mixed in with your finished compost.Compact, odorless, and efficient, this composter will yield beautiful, densely nutritious compost that your plants and gardens will thrive on. This large capacity wormery (75cm x 57cm x 39cm) includes 18 litre trays which we found produced good quality compost.

Packed with features including the ventilated lid, working trays, and collector tray for increased airflow. Ease of use: how straightforward is it to add waste and harvest liquid, any design flaws and features or accessories which affected use. Once you’ve emptied the tray it moves to the top of the wormery – in this way your organic waste will constantly be recycled. This model had the smallest capacity of those we tested and took the longest to compost overall, although we found the quality of what was produced to be good.If you're interested in other types of garden waste disposal, you can see our round up of some of the best garden compost bins. It is important to make sure you use only composters in your Can-O-Worms since earthworkers will not do well. Finished compost is removed from the bottom tray and once emptied this is placed back on top of the other trays to repeat the process.